By Most of our trip to Belize was spent relaxing on Caye Caulker. However, we also visited Ambergris Caye, our island’s northern neighbor, where we stopped for lunch during our snorkeling excursion. Given some time to explore the town of San Pedro, we found that everything was bigger, noisier, and a bit more expensive. You can drive a car there and party in late-night dance clubs.
From Caye Caulker, we booked a cave tubing excursion out of Belize City. Our driver and personal tour guide picked us up at the ferry dock in a comfortable air-conditioned car. He talked about his country’s history on the way to the caves. Once there, our driver changed hats and became our river guide. Carrying inner tubes and donning helmets with headlamps, we hiked upriver, into the jungle.
Hike to Adventure Near Belize City
The guide filled us in on flora and fauna along the way. The trek was uphill but easily manageable. Wading into the cool and slow-moving river was incredibly refreshing. Cathryn felt startled by something nipping at her legs. Apparently, they’re called Kissing Fish and are sometimes kept in tanks and used for exfoliating. Cathryn didn’t enjoy the spa treatment and was happier laying in her tube.
Cliff swallows darted in and out of the mouth of the cave. Nothing but a dark hole in the rock, we could only see with the aid of our headlamps. Floating with the current, our guide steered us around rocks and walls. To me, a cave is a cave, and I’ve seen many. But tubing on a river in the dark heightened my senses — the sound of gurgling water, dank smell of the still and cool air — it was amazing.
Fresh Out of Belize City
Being so close to the border of Guatemala, and a fan of Mayan ruins, I booked an excursion to Tikal. From the ferry dock in Belize City, we were to board a luxury bus that would take us to the border. After waiting over an hour in the sweltering heat, a chicken bus pulled to the curb. It looked nothing like the shiny new one we’d seen in the brochure. I wasn’t surprised.
It was a hot, bumpy, and grueling four-hour trip to the Guatemala border. Cathryn learned the hard way not to keep our money in a suitcase. One of the porters on the boat had ripped us off. Mobbed by currency exchange dudes, we had no cash to trade. Our driver found and rescued us from the hoard and escorted us to our private vehicle. I sighed with relief at the sight of all the new tour vans lined up in a row. Ours was not one of them.
Eduardo was our English-speaking driver. He looked to be about 30 years old, the same age as his vehicle. The A/C wasn’t working and neither was Eduardo’s English, but we shared a laugh at having similar first names. It wasn’t our last laugh. When we stopped for gas, Eduardo couldn’t get the van started again. After watching him fiddle with tools and the battery, I offered a solution. Noting our chariot was a stick-shift, and that the road ahead was downhill, I suggested that we push-start the van.
A Rolling Start To Tikal
Eduardo rounded up some help and the push was on. Being paying customers, Cathryn and I got to sit inside while the men pushed. On a good roll downhill, our driver jumped in and dropped it in gear. Eduardo turned to us and offered a big smile that was shy of a few teeth. We were off to see the wizard.
Checking into our room just outside the park gate, howler and spider monkeys greeted us, playing in the trees. We felt thrilled about staying right in the jungle, in an upscale hotel. The novelty wore off when Cathryn discovered a spider the size of her hand in the bathroom. At that moment we understood why there was netting around the bed.
Welcome to the Jungle
The ruins at Tikal are similar to others I’ve seen at Chichen Itza and Uxmal in Mexico but different in that the main plaza was tighter and more closely surrounded by jungle. My jaw dropped when I walked out from under the thick canopy. The ceremonial temples stood like ancient sentinels, their tops peeking through the treetops. The dark patina of the Mayan structures made them look mythical.
Eduardo was waiting in his Rolls Canardly (rolls downhill but can hardly make it back up) at the park exit. He drove us to the island of Flores on Lake Peten Itza, Guatemala’s second-largest lake. A causeway links the island to Santa Elena and the mainland. It was our chosen pit stop on the way back to Belize City. The town has an undeniably European flair, with pastel-colored buildings and cobbled streets.
Flores to Caye Caulker
The island is small enough that we were able to walk its circumference, seeking out especially cool little cafes and courtyards. The lake looked calm and we enjoyed a sightseeing cruise on a water taxi that was nothing more than a wooden rowboat with a trolling motor. We loved Flores so much that we extended our stay by another day.
To save time, and not endure another grueling bus ride back to Belize, we booked a flight from Flores to Caye Caulker. It was a small plane that only held a handful of passengers, but we could see right into the cockpit and had beautiful views of the Caribbean and our own Gilligan’s Island.
There are no big and fancy all-inclusive resorts on Caye Caulker in Belize. If that’s what you’re looking for, try Ambergris Caye. But if you enjoy kite-surfing, diving, snorkeling, fishing, or just plain doing nothing but laying on the beach, then this place is for you. There’s no need to bring nice clothes. In fact, with a warm climate, you don’t need many clothes at all. It’s basically barefoot in Belize.
If you want to read about any of my southeast Asian adventures take a look at the travel section of my website at www.edmondgagnon.com.
48 Comments. Leave new
It looks like a fun trip, I dream of visiting Belize and Guatemala one day. The border crossing was an adventure but glad everything worked out for you.
The unexpected adventures make for the best memories. Thanks for your feedback, Julie.
Looks like an amazing adventure. So cool to see the images of the places you are visiting. I would love to visit South America, I have friends that lived in Belize and loved it! Tikal would be amazing to see!
Never been there but seeing how enjoyful your adventure is makes me want to try!
Thanks for your feedback, Matt, and yes, Tikal was very cool.
Your adventure sounds so fun! I wonder when will I have to experience that too.
Wow….that is quite a snake in the jungle! I would like to visit Belize.
I developed an interest in Mayan culture as well and have visited sites in Mexico, Belize and Copan, Honduras. But Tikal was the one I marvelled at the most – partly because of the short jungle trek required to get to it as well as the sheer grandeur of the ‘templos’. . I had never seen the movie ‘Star Wars’ before, but one of the last scenes in the film is shot with an aerial view of Tikal. I also agree with you about the quaint charm of Flores. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
We’re all itching to get out and make some more memories, Michael.
Belize seems to be a great place to explore. The ruins at Tikal are incredible!
Yes, Tikal was incredible and a very cool place to explore.
Oh nice! I’ve never been here before. I would love to see the Mayan structures in person.
I’ve seen many Mayan ruin sites, Amber, but the ones at Tikal are truly unique.
Wow, these all look like such wonderful places to visit! When COVID is over, this is definitely making the top of my travel bucket list!
Glad to hear it, Emily. You go girl!
I miss Belize! I can’t wait to visit again once COVID is over. Saving your pin since I would love to checkout some of the places you visited as well!
No problem, I have more pictures and a few other stories…check travel on my website.
What a nice adventure! This is such a beautiful place to explore!
It is a great place to explore, Toni, maybe you’ll get there some day.
Belize is one of our favorite destinations when we cruise. The island is small but full of amazing things to see and do
Yes it is, Tomi, but don’t be fooled by the fake village when you dock at Belize City. If you went to any of the islands you will know the difference, because the city beyond the port fences is a dirty and unsafe place.
What a fun place to visit. I don’t do well without air conditioning though!
I hear you…I’m a sweathog and our bungalow had no AC. It was fine at night but an oven midday. There are plenty of other places to stay with AC and the bars and restaurants were shaded and enjoyable.
I cannot wait to start traveling again. Thank you for sharing your adventures with us, I enjoyed reading it!
Me too, Olivia, we’re supposed to be in Croatia right now but had to settle for a short trip in Northern Ontario.
Thanks for sharing another fantastic trip! I am missing the travel so much. Belize is such a beauty!
You’re welcome, Blair, we miss it too…supposed to be in Croatia right now.
Belize is beautiful! I dream of going there one day when we can resume travel. Except for the spider. Wouldn’t like finding that! 🙂
I hope you get there, Pam, and I’m sure there are plenty more spiders in the jungle, but we were told it wasn’t poisonous 🙂
I’ve never been to Belize and I’ve always wanted to go to Caye Caulker. Your trip looks amazing and the photos are great. Thanks for sharing your travels. It’s always inspiring to read about where travel bloggers go and what they do.
Thanks Piper, I hope you get there one day. I’m happy to share our experience. I have lots more similar stories in the travel section of my website.
Belize is on my bucket list of places to visit. This looks like a wonderful experience.
It was a wonderful experience, Tasheena, I hope you get there to see for yourself.
I have never been there but it sounds like a great destination to visit for my next trip. I am glad that you’ve had a lot of fun exploring that place, keep safe!
I hope you get there Gervin, it was a great place to explore. Thanks for your feedback.
I haven’t been to Belize or Guatemala. What an adventure! I hope to see these two beauties!
Both worth checking out…and they’re right next door to each other. Happy travels!
That looks like a beautiful place, I would love to see it in person. What a gorgeous way to send time!
I hope you get there, with or without the kids. It was quite a memorable trip.
I was so excited about Belize and seeing the ruins. It has been a lifelong dream. But seeing the spider pic and your wife’s story just made me prefer to enjoy pictures instead!!!! Seriously, though, it sounds like you had a great trip.
No sweat, Marie, if she could handle it you can too…was only the one…in the jungle. The giant crabs on Caye Caulker were much scarier looking…but they ran off before you got near them. Well, then there was the one guy who pulled one of my socks down into his hole after it fell from the line.
Looks like you all had fun. I’ve heard about Belize before and how great the place is. I hope I get to explore it someday.
Yes, we did, Lynndee. I hope you get there too.
The bus tour reminds me of my trip to Jamaica. It was a crazy ride because they didn’t have wide roads and they flew down the road. We had fun though. I couldn’t imagine being in the hotel room and finding a huge spider. At least the hotel had netting to help but still would be scary.
It’s these kinds of adventures that make the best memories.
I have never been to Belize, but I am dying to go! Thanks so much for sharing!
You’re welcome Jessica, I sincerely hope you get there.
Your trip sounds like an ultimate adventure! I can’t wait to travel again!